This section is from the book "Carpentry For Beginners - Things To Make", by John D. Adams. Also available from Amazon: Make Magazine.

With the present design a simple method of connecting shades to ordinary key sockets is introduced that will undoubtedly appeal to the amateur craftsman. A hole is cut in the top of the shade large enough for the end of the socket to pass through. Four strips of stiff tin, about a quarter of an inch wide by an inch long, are firmly bound or soldered around the socket, which is then slipped through the hole in the top of the shade. The strips of tin are spread outward so as to support the shade, all as set forth in the accompanying sectional sketch, A small screw or tack in each piece of tin will prevent the shade from rotating on the socket.

The top and bottom pieces of the shade are first to be made ready, and after the holes have been sawed out and made smooth, nail some small strips around the under side of each top piece and around the top side of each bottom piece, in the case of the hall lantern. The eight side panels are now in order, and will be worked out with the scroll saw as usual. When all edges have been made smooth and square, arrange for holding the colored or frosted glass securely in place. If suitable glass cannot be obtained, use heavy colored paper. The pieces may now be put together with a few very fine wire brads and glue.
In the meantime proceed with the wall bracket.
The central arm will be made as in the detail view, tenoned on one end, pointed at the other, and notched out to hold the crossbar that supports the shades. This latter piece will also be pointed and similarly notched. When these two pieces have been fitted neatly and squarely together, drill two holes for the ends of the sockets to fit in and two smaller ones clear through for the wires, which are carried along through grooves to the central arm, where they join and pass to the back. The two wall blocks are now in order, the smaller one being mortised to match the central arm. The curved bracket remains to be shaped up, after which the whole may be put together, using glue and a few nails so placed as to be invisible. The completed wall bracket and the two shades should be suitably stained, sandpapered again, filled if the wood is open-grained, and sanded once more when dry, after which a thorough rubbing with wax completes the job.

In living-rooms with dark woodwork and paneled walls the type of wall light shown in the accompanying illustration is effective from a decorative standpoint.
 
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