Most blunt scissors in addition to being blunt have the centre screw loose. This should be tightened up, and if, as is frequently the case, the screw has the thread stripped, or the head so worn that no screwdriver will engage, then the best and quickest action to take is to treat the screw as a rivet, and tighten it by light blows with a hammer while resting the scissors on a steel or iron block. Assuming now that the screw is tight, but not too tight, observe whether the blades open and shut and engage the two edges properly along the whole of the length. If they do not then make one of them as straight as possible, and so bend or hammer the other that both edges do engage properly. If the scissors never close the points together properly, it will probably be due to the inside edges of the finger loops touching each other. The remedy is to bend the loop stalks until the points do meet. If the points of the blades over-run each other, then bend the loop stalks towards each other. All these points being in order proceed to sharpen the blades by preferably using a grindstone, and holding each edge to the stone in turn, at the same angle, as that shown by the existing edges. The inside face of the scissor blade, i.e., the faces that lie against each other, or on each blade, should never be ground, as it is the edges of these faces that by passing each other in actual contact ensure that material is cut between them, and grinding the faces would prevent them meeting and cutting. The grinding of the edges at the required angle as mentioned above ensures that a new sharp edge is obtained. By finishing off on an oil stone, a sharp smooth edge is obtained, but the required angle will stil! be adhered to, and not varied throughout the length of the biade.