The stitch regulator may have been turned back so far that the feed is entirely out of action.

Needle may be bent.

Machine Working Heavily

If the machine works hard after standing it is probably gummed and needs a general cleaning.

The belt may be too tight and hence putting excessive pressure on the bearings.

When the belt is too loose it slips on the balance wheel and causes the operator to treadle more than is necessary.

Sometimes thread becomes wound round the hub of the balance wheel and the ends of the band wheel crank. With constant running and contact with oil the thread works in next to the bearings so tightly that it makes the machine run heavily. When this happens, remove the thread with a stilletto or other sharp instrument.

Sometimes the bobbin winder snaps down, putting pressure against the balance wheel. Be sure to see that the bobbin winder is released.

Puckered Seams

Tension too tight.

Stitch too long for material being sewn, especially on fine material.

Noisy Treadle

If the treadle is noisy, the screws on which it is pivoted need tightening. Release one of the screws by backing off the nut one or two turns with a wrench, place a screwdriver in the slot of the screw and advance the screw towards the treadle just enough to take up the slack. Tighten the nut and test the treadle. If still noisy, repeat the operation on the other side.

Removing Gummed Oil

If the machine has been idle for several weeks and runs hard, it is probably due to gummed oil. When a machine has become gummed, all working parts should be carefully oiled with paraffin. This will loosen the old oil if not too badly gummed. Run the machine rapidly for a few minutes and wipe thoroughly with a duster. Then oil all working parts with high-grade sewing machine oil. A second oiling after a few hours of use is advisable whenever paraffin has been used." (Singer Sewing M/c. Co. Ltd.)

Selecting Cotton Or Silk

Cotton or Silk for machine sewing may generally be three sizes finer than that used in hand sewing, as it is strong enough and better adapted to the work. For instance, where 40 cotton would be used in hand sewing, use 60 or 70 cotton on the machine. The following rules on this subject may be useful :-

Use Cotton Nos. For calico, long cloth, etc............ ;GO to 80

For fine lawn nainsooks, etc..... ;.... 100 to 150

For fine linens ;.... 80 to 120

For light woollens, flannels, etc. .... 40 to 60 For heavy woollens .... 20 to 40 For dressmaking .... 50 to 70 or Silk Nos. 24 or 30 (equal to A or O in the "Table") For hemming silk, etc., Silk No. 36

(equal to OO in the "Table ") For embroidery, Silk 8 to 10 (equal to F or E in the "Table " ). For braiding. Silk No. 30 (equal to O in the "Table ") or Cotton No. 70.

Any good cotton works well on the machine except very fine numbers of soft finished. For black or coloured cottons use only elac6 finished. Soft finished black and coloured cottons will often break or work unsatisfactorily. Use glac6 cotton in place of linen thread. (Willcox & Gibbs Sewing M/c Co.)

Practically all sewing machines are provided with a book of instructions, dealing with all likely troubles, but those given above are the most frequent, and apply equally to all makes. In the case of a broken part, it generally is the better course to obtain a replacement from the makers direct, but in the event of being located with the machine at a great distance from the makers, then a more or less temporary repair must be made on the spot. In this case it should not be too difficult to get the machine going again, until such time as the new part arrives. Broken parts can in most cases be either brazed or welded together, and finished by a file and patience; of course accurate note will be taken of all necessary dimensions and angles, etc., before the welding starts.