Fig. 119

Sawing With Hand And Tenon Saw

Vertical Chiselling

End Grain Shooting With Plane

Boring And Screwing.

Tools Used

Hand saw, tenon saw, 1/4 -in. and 3/4 -in. chisel, jack plane and smoothing plane.

Fig. 119.

Timber Used

Yellow deal, or preferably some hard wood, as sycamore, 1 ft. long by 2 1/4 ins. by 3/8 in. to be cut out of a board.

Drawing

The plan and front or side elevation, or the isometric projection.

Fig. 120.

Method

In marking out on a board of sycamore the gauge, owing to the irregularities of the edges of the wood, cannot be used. The pencil, square, and straight-edge, therefore, take its place.

If the timber is some market form of a soft wood - e.g.. a yellow deal batten or board - the dimensions should be first tested for accuracy with the rule, and 1 foot marked off with rule, square, and pencil, from one end, and entirely across the board. On the line drawn, measure and mark 2 1/4 ins. + 1/4 in. for waste in planing, and the same distance at the end.

The timber is now ready for sawing out, though if hard wood, with irregular edges, is used, a line must be marked off to make supposititious edges, and the irregularities outside afterwards sawn off.

Saw the wood either entirely across along the pencil line, or as far as the limits of the piece required for the exercise.

The operator should stand as in fig. 120, the wood across two sawing stools.

With a panel saw not too much 'set,' the pupil should stand with the back of the saw, the right hand, elbow, shoulder, and eye in a line, so that good steady strokes can be taken well from the shoulder. The thumb is used as with the tenon saw, to steady the blade as it enters, and the strokes at first should be firmly but lightly made.

In sawing, the edge of the blade should make an angle of about 65° with the ground. If the angle is less, the length of the cut is commensurately increased, and the physical effort becomes too much for the average boy. For this reason thin material is used in this exercise. The thicker the wood, or the greater the slope of the saw, the greater the difficulty of sawing it square to the surface line, and this is a common fault with beginners, and must be carefully watched both by pupil and instructor.

Having sawn the wood across, put the right knee on the board or the piece cut off, and saw down the pencil line to get the required piece of wood for the model (see fig. 121). An alternative plan is to put it in the vice and saw it vertically, as shown in fig. 122.

Plane or true up the wood with the jack plane, or if this is not in first-class condition, with the trying plane, as there is really no dissimilarity in the manner of using them.

Fig. 121.

The wood is of ample length to make the model, so square a cut line across each end and cut off the waste outside it, sawing 1/32 in. outside the line. Now plane off this 1/32 in. with jack plane.

This is rather a difficult operation, but if the following directions are observed it becomes comparatively easy. It should be done again if the attempt is not successful at first, as there is enough waste in the middle of the wood to permit of this.

Fig. 122.

First cut off one corner with the chisel and place the model against the stop of the shooting board and the plane on its side against the end grain, as in fig. 123, the cut corner being away from the pupil. This will ensure the safety of the end fibres, which otherwise would certainly break out in planing. The iron in end planing should be set fine., Having made the ends true, draw the back and shelf on the wood. From one end mark a cut line to indicate the length of the back, and from the opposite end another to give the length of the shelf. On the portion allotted for the shelf draw the two slots. First square a line over on both sides with the pencil, at the same distance from the end as the depth of the slot, and mark with a gauge the sides of the slots on both sides of the wood.

Fig. 123.

On the back draw the groove to take the shelf with cut lines, and mark off all the chamfers at the corners. Gauge the depth of the groove to take the shelf, and cut it out as in Exercise I. Saw down the slots a little inside the gauged lines and mortise out the waste with a small chisel, then pare away what is left from the saw, as in Exercise Y. If the pupil has not sufficient strength to mortise by hand, he should give a few blows on the end of the chisel handle with the mallet. Pare off the chamfers at the corners, as in Exercise V., completing the corner first cut off. Saw off the shelf with the tenon saw, and cut off the back, leaving 1/32 in. to be planed off, as in the case of the open ends. Finish the chamfering of the back. Draw and mortise the square hole in the back by which to hang the model up. Make a large gimlet hole in the middle of the little square to be removed.

When the chisel is struck this hole affords an escape for the yielding fibres, and if it did not exist, the model would probably be spoiled by splitting.

Before putting the back and shelf together, a shaving may be taken off the face side of the former, but if the model is cleanly made, this may not be necessary.

Hold the shelf in the position it is to occupy, and with a small gimlet make the two screw holes through the back and into the shelf.

The screws should fit tightly, but the holes should be large enough to allow the screws to go in without much force being employed.

Development.

The mark on one of the sides is a lead-pencil tick made to distinguish the face from the opposite side.

Side elevation.

Front elevation.

Isometric projection.

Plan.

Fig. 124.