Elements Of Construction | by Charles A. King

This volume deals with the use of the common woodworking tools, the simple forms of construction used in fastening wood together, and the reading and understanding of simple drawings - all of which will be found of indispensable value, not only to the student of manual training, but to those who, either as amateurs or professionals, have anything to do with work of a mechanical nature. The problems in elementary construction are intended to familiarize the pupil with their various uses, and one or more of these problems, bearing upon the work he is to do, should precede the undertaking of any really important work

Title	Elements Of Construction
Author	Charles A. King
Publisher	American Book Company
Year	1911
Copyright	1911, By Charles A. King
Amazon	Elements of construction

King's Series In Woodwork And Carpentry

Elements Of Construction

By Charles A. King

Director Of Manual Training

Eastern High School, Bay City, Michigan

New York Cincinnati Chicago

American Book Company

King's Series In Woodwork And Carpentry

"Elements Of Woodwork", "Elements Of Construction", "Constructive Carpentry", "Inside Finishing", "Handbook For Teachers"

W. P. I.

Preface To The Series: This series consists of five volumes, four of which are intended as textbooks for pupils in manual-training, industrial, trade, technical, or normal schools. The fifth book of the series, the Handboo...

Preface To Elements Of Construction: This volume deals with the use of the common woodworking tools, the simple forms of construction used in fastening wood together, and the reading and understanding of simple drawings - all of which wi...

List Of Illustrations: 1. Manual-training Bench......... 2 2. Carpenter's Bench.......... 2 3. Two-foot, Four-fold Rule ........ 3 4. Zigzag Rule........... 3 5. Position of Try-square in Squaring an Edge ..... ...

1. How To Purchase Tools: How To Purchase Tools. (A.) The quality of the ools used by the mechanic is of the greatest importance. They should be selected carefully, and while it is the poorest economy to buy any but the best, ...

2. Benches: Benches. (A.) Figure 1 shows the type of bench used in the most up-to-date carpenter and cabinet shops, while that used by carpenters for ordinary work usually is of the type shown in Fig. 2. (B.) ...

3. Rules: Rules. The two-foot, four-fold rule (Fig. 3) is the one generally used by carpenters. It is made of different grades, the more expensive makes being divided into 16ths, 8ths, 10 ths, and 12ths, and ha...

4. The Try-Square: The Try-Square (A.) consists of the beam (Fig. 5, a), which is generally of metal-lined wood, and the blade (6), which is a thin piece of steel. Fig. 5. - Position of Try-square in Squaring an ...

5. The Steel Square, Or Framing Square: The Steel Square, Or Framing Square (Fig. 8) is often used as a try-square upon large work, though its most important use is in framing or roof construction. It is indispensable in finding the lengths...

6. The Bevel: The Bevel (Fig. 9) may be set for use in marking and testing any angle, in the same manner that the try-square is used upon rectangular work. The illustration shows the bevel and the steel square in p...

7. The Gauge: The Gauge (A.), Fig. 10, is for the purpose of making lines parallel to the face or working side or edge. Usually it is made in four pieces: the head (a), which is held against the face side or edge...

8. The Hammer: The Hammer (A.) is used by the average woodworker more than any other tool. The face (Fig. 12, a) and the claws (b) should be tempered carefully, as they will either bruise or bend if too soft, or ...

9. The Hatchet: The Hatchet (A.) is used for hewing light work, for shingling, and as a heavy hammer, though the face is rarely tempered to stand very heavy usage (Fig. 15, a). (B.) A hand ax, or broad hatchet (Fi...

10. The Mallet: The Mallet. This tool should be used upon chisel handles, as a hammer will destroy the handle in a very short time. Mallets are of two shapes, the square-faced (Fig. 16, a) and the round mallet ...

11. Saws: Saws. (A.) The saws used by the carpenter are for cutting parallel with, or across, the grain, or a combination of the two, and all are composed of two parts, the handle and the blade. The...

12. The Knife Blade: The Knife Blade. used by the woodworker for general work is similar to that shown in Fig. 21, at A. That shown at B is the form of blade in most common use in manual-training schools, as it is better ...

13. Planes: Planes. (A.) The plane is the most complex, as well as one of the most important, tools which the woodworker uses, and a high grade of skill is necessary to keep it in order, as well as to use it prop...

14. Sharpening A Plane: Sharpening A Plane. (A.) An important part of this process is the grinding of the cutter. Set the cap back about J from the edge of the iron, and use it as a guide by which to grind the iron perfectl...

15. The Jack Plane: The Jack Plane (Fig. 30) generally is 15 long, and its ordinary use is for the purpose of roughing out a piece of wood for jointing or smoothing. If it is properly sharpened, it may be used as a smoo...

16. The Jointer: The Jointer. (A.) This tool is from 20 to 26 long, and is used to straighten edges and surfaces, or to fit them together. The shape of the edge of the cutter of this plane should be but slightly ell...

17. The Smoothing Plane: The Smoothing Plane (A.) is of the same type and mechanism as those described above, though it is but 9 or 10 long; if satisfactory work is expected from it, it must be kept in good order, with the c...

18. The Block Plane: The Block Plane (A.) (knuckle joint cap, Fig. 32) is constructed upon a somewhat different principle than the planes above described, as the adjusting nut (a) under the cutter at the rear end of the p...

19. The Correct Plane Position: The Correct Position. (A.) In using planes, or any edge tools, a position should be taken which will furnish sufficient resistance to the pressure required for making the cut, as the pressure should b...

20. Chisels: Chisels. (A.) Carpenters' chisels are used for paring and mortising. The paring chisel should be light, smoothly finished, and ground with a sharper bevel than that used for mortising, for which the h...

21. Gouges: Gouges. may, in general, be described in the same way as chisels, except that they are curved instead of flat. The terms inside and outside, used in describing them, indicate whether they are grou...

22. The Drawshave: The Drawshave (Fig. 39) is often used in cutting curves, in chamfering, and for roughing out work. The patent drawshave, with folding handles, is a safer tool to keep in the tool box, as the edge is p...

23. The Spokeshave: The Spokeshave (Fig. 40) should not be used in any place where a plane can be used, but only upon concave or convex surfaces; when used, it may be either pushed or pulled. Fig. 40. - Spokeshave...

23. Bits: Bits (A.) are of many different types, the most common being the auger bit (Fig. 41). The use of the worm (A) is to draw the bit into the wood, thus making a heavy pressure upon the bit unnecessary...

25. The Bitbrace, Or Stock: The Bitbrace, Or Stock. - (A.) This tool is used to hold the bit, and to furnish sufficient leverage to turn the bit into the wood. Bitbraces are made of different sizes, and with different devices fo...

26. The Screwdriver: The Screwdriver (A.) is one of the most important tools in a carpenter's kit, and to be of use should be of finely tempered steel; for, if too soft, it will turn over, and if too hard, it will break. ...

27. Compasses, Or Dividers: Compasses, Or Dividers (Fig. 47), are used to draw circles and curves, and for spacing and scribing, by which is meant the process of fitting a piece of wood to an uneven surface. Calipers (Fig. 48) a...

28. Pliers: Pliers. (A.) These are indispensable little tools (Fig. 49), and every workman should own a pair. Those combining several tools are most useful; cheap tools of this sort are usually worthless. (B.)...

29. The Scraper: The Scraper. is one of the most useful tools in the kit of the carpenter who works upon hard wood. This tool may be purchased, or made of a very hard saw; it must be of hard, tough steel, or the edge ...

30. Edges: Edges. There are two forms of edges used in sharpening scrapers, - the square and the beveled edge; in sharpening either of these, the edge should be filed, whetted, and turned with a burnisher. This ...

31. Nail Sets: Nail Sets. are for the purpose of setting the nails, or for sinking them below the surface of the wood; and in order to stand the hard usage to which they are subjected, they must be very carefully ...

32. Wrenches: Wrenches. are of many kinds and patterns and of every conceivable use, but that known as the monkey,' or Coe's, wrench (Fig. 61) is perhaps the most convenient for general work and has not been su...

33. Handscrews: Handscrews (A.), if of good material and well made, will stand any legitimate use, and if properly used and cared for, will last a lifetime. However, a novice or a careless workman often destroys them...

34. A Grindstone: A Grindstone. (A.) A grindstone of good quality, from 20 to 26 in diameter, is indispensable to a woodworking shop, and should be used frequently, as the efficiency of cutting tools is much increase...

35. Emery, Corundum, Carborundum, And Other Artificial Abrasive Wheels: Emery, Corundum, Carborundum, And Other Artificial Abrasive Wheels. have in many cases supplanted the grindstone, as they cut much more rapidly. Any one not accustomed to using them must be careful th...

36. Whetstones: Whetstones. (A.) These are used to give to a tool the keen edge necessary to cut wood smoothly. The natural stone in most common use is the Washita stone, which is quarried in the Ozark mountains, a...

37. Files: Files. (A.) Files are used for many purposes by wood-workers. An assortment consisting of 4 and 6 slim taper, or three-cornered, files; 8 and 10 flat, or bastard, files; 8, 10, and 12 round fil...

38. Saw Filing: Saw Filing. (A.) This is an accomplishment which every young woodworker should master, as its possession will save expense and inconvenience, and add much to his efficiency as a workman. Fig. 6...

Suggestive Exercises: 1. What should be the quality of all mechanics' tools? Is a good, serviceable tool always finely finished ? Are tools made especially for some dealer always reliable ? What is the safest method to fol...

39. Use And Purpose Of Working Drawings: Use And Purpose Of Working Drawings (A.) It is essential to the success of a workman of the present time that he should be able to read ordinary working drawings readily, and to take measurements f...

40. Three-View Drawing: Three-View Drawing. Any object to be drawn may be shown generally by three views; for instance, let us assume that the perspective sketch of the cross in Fig. 73 represents the idea, or the mental ima...

41. Sections: Sections. (A.) In order to show the construction of details which cannot be indicated upon any of the three views of the object, a drawing of the detail may be made separate from the main drawing, con...

42. Center Lines: Center Lines. Figure 80 shows a piece of panel work with breaks, as it is too large to be drawn to the full scale. As both sides of the center line are alike, there is no need of drawing more than one...

43. Radii And Centers: Radii And Centers. Figure 82 shows the method of indicating the radii and centers. Fig. 82. - Method of Indicating Radii and Centers. ...

44. Notes And Dimensions: Notes And Dimensions. In studying plans, it is important that every reference and explanatory note should be read and carefully considered; every line should be followed its entire length, as what may...

45. Using The Scale: Using The Scale. In using a scale, the workman must learn to think in feet and inches. It is a great temptation to the novice, because it seems the easiest way, to reduce the desired measurements of f...

46. Drawing Tools: Drawing Tools. (A.) The board equipment. - In making a working drawing, the student should have a drawing board (Fig. 85, a), a T square (6), and also a 45 triangle (c), a 30 and 60 tri...

Suggestive Exercises #2: 39. Why is a knowledge of drawing essential to a workman? What is the difference between a photograph, or a perspective sketch, and a working drawing? What is the object of a working drawing? 40. H...

47. Object Of Exercises: Object Of Exercises. The tool exercises of this chapter are not intended to be performed one after the other, though a certain amount of this work is valuable in forming correct habits in the use of t...

48. Use Of Exercises: Use Of Exercises. Before beginning a piece of work, the student should read the text and the references, and should understand every step necessary to complete the model. It will be noticed that the s...

49. Wood For Exercises: Wood For Exercises. (A.) The following exercises may be made of any soft, easily worked wood. White pine is the most desirable in localities where it is not too expensive; poplar, or whitewood, as it...

50. Straight Edge: Straight Edge. Fig. 86. Material: 1 piece, 24 x 1 3/4 x \ thick. A. Lining off: Select a straight-grained, soft 1/2 board, and, holding the pencil and rule as shown in Fig. 87, line off the pi...

51. Exercise In Chiseling: Exercise In Chiseling. Fig. 89. Material: Poplar or pine. 1 piece, 12 x 1 1/2x 7/8. In preparing the material for this and for the following models, the exercises from 50 A to M should be followed ...

52. Square Butt Joint: Square Butt Joint. Fig. 91. Material: 1 piece, a, 6 1 1/2 x 7/8. 1 piece, 6, 41/2 x 1 1/2 x 7/8. A. Fitting the joint: Preferably holding the work as shown in Fig. 34, saw the joint with the ...

53. End Butt Joint: End Butt Joint. Fig. 92. Material: 2 pieces, 4 1/2 x 11/2 x 7/8. Fitting the joint: Fit these pieces to each other, end to end, the process of fitting being the same as in the preceding problem....

54. Edge Joint: Edge Joint. Fig. 93. Material: 2 pieces, 12 x 1 1/2 x 1. Neither piece should be cut to length nor planed to width until the exercise is completed, when it should be treated as one piece. A. ...

54. Edge Joint. Continued: 6. Unless both pieces are perfectly fair and out of wind (i as in kind), that is, unless they will lay perfectly flat upon a true surface, it is impossible to make a joint which will stand this te...

55. Intersection Joint: Intersection Joint. Fig. 101. Material: 1 piece, a, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. 1 piece, 6, 6 X 24 X -2-. 1. Fitting the joint: Lay the pieces upon each other, as indicated by the dotted lines, at...

56. Lap Joint: Lap Joint. Fig. 102. Material: 2 pieces 6 X 1 1/2 X J. 1. Fitting the joint : Plane the two sides which are to be glued together, and sandpaper them; do the same to the end of each piece which i...

57. Fished Joint: Fished Joint. Fig. 104. Material: 2 pieces, a, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. 2 pieces, b, 6 X 1 1/2 X 1/4. Prepare the pieces by jointing one edge of each and making pieces b of the desired lengt...

58. Mitered Joint: Mitered Joint. Fig. 105. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. A. Uses of the mitered joint: The term miter is usually applied to the angle of 45, by which a right angle is joined togethe...

59. Halved Scarfed Joint: Halved Scarfed Joint. Fig. 109. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. A. Fitting the joint: This joint is sometimes used when it is necessary to join two timbers lengthwise. If used as a girde...

60. Tapered Scarfed Joint: Tapered Scarfed Joint. Fig. 113. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. Fig. 113. - Tapered Scarfed Joint. This form of scarfed joint is used for the same purpose as that described in To...

61. Notched Joint, Or Locked Joint: Notched Joint, Or Locked Joint. Fig. 114. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 11/2 X 7/8. Fig. 114. - Notched, or Locked, Joint. A. Laying out the joint: This joint is often used at corners, where...

62. Housed Joints Or Tank Joints: Housed Joints Or Tank Joints. Fig. 116. Material: 3 pieces, 4 X 3 X 7/8. These joints are used in making waterproof tanks and sinks. Fitting the joint: At a is shown the form of joint gene...

63. Half-Dovetailed Joint: Half-Dovetailed Joint. Fig. 117. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 3/8 X 1 3/8. This is a very strong joint when it is in place with a vertical load upon it, as the dovetail resists all horizontal str...

64. Checked Joint: Checked Joint. Fig. 118. Material: 2 pieces, 6 1 1/2 X 7/8. This joint is used in fitting floor timbers to sills, girders, and plates, and is a very common one in building construction. Floor...

65. Mortised Joint: Mortised Joint. Fig. 119. Material: 2 pieces, 6 1 1/2 X 7/8. This is a common form of joint, and may be made at any angle. It is used in framing girts into corner posts and the ends of brac...

66. Mortised Joint And Relish: Mortised Joint And Relish. Fig. 124. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. This joint is used in joining the stiles and bottom rails of doors, panelwork, etc. If the mortise extended to the bo...

67. Dovetailed Brace Joint, Or Halved Joint: Dovetailed Brace Joint, Or Halved Joint. Fig. 125. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 11/2 X 7/8. This joint is sometimes used to fasten braces into corner posts, girts, and sills, where they will be su...

68. Mitered Halved Joint: Mitered Halved Joint. Fig. 127. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. This joint may be used in making a strong corner at any angle where it is necessary to show a miter upon one side, in orde...

69. Doweled Joint: Doweled Joint. Fig. 128. Material: 1 piece, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. 1 piece, 4 1/2 X l1/2 X 7/8. If this joint is well made and not exposed to the weather, it is the most efficient substitute ...

70. Mitered Doweled Joint: Mitered Doweled Joint. Fig. 133. Material: 2 pieces, 6 X 2 1/2 X 7/8. Fit the joint; then fit the dowels by Method 1, Fig. 130. A. Gluing a mitered joint: Method 1. It is plain that a j...

71. Miter Box: Miter Box. Figure 135. Material: 2 pieces, 16 X 3 7/8 X 7/8. 1 piece, 16 X 2 1/2 X 7/8. This is an important adjunct to a kit of carpenter's tools, for if it is made accurately, a perfe...

72. Joggled And Wedged Splice: Joggled And Wedged Splice. Fig. 136. Material: 2 pieces, 6X 1 1/2 X 7/8. This form of scarfed joint is used to lengthen timbers with the least possible sacrifice of shearing strength, the ...

73. Halved Joint And Rabbeted Joint: Halved Joint And Rabbeted Joint. Fig. 137. Material 2 pieces, 6 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. Panelwork is sometimes built by this form of construction, the panels being put in and fastened from the back...

74. Table Leg Joint: Table Leg Joint. Fig. 139. Material: 1 piece, 4 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 2 1/2. 2 pieces, 6 X 3 X 7/8. As its name implies, this joint is used to fasten the rails and legs of a table together. ...

75. Double Mortised Joint: Double Mortised Joint. Fig. 140. Material: 1 piece, 12 X 2 X 7/8. 1 piece, 7X 5 X 7/8. A. Comparison of a wide and double mortised joint: Where wide rails are used, such as the middle a...

76. Coped Joint: Coped Joint. Fig. 142 (sash joint). Material: 1 piece, 6 X 2 1/2 X l 3/8. 1 piece, 4 X 1 X 1 3/8. Molded on one edge. Molded on two edges. This material may be secured at a sash fact...

77. Wedged And Halved Scarfed Joint: Wedged And Halved Scarfed Joint. Fig. 144. Material: 2 pieces, 6 3/8 X 1 1/2 X 7/8. This joint is used in heavy wooden construction in places where it is necessary to have the greatest ten...

78. Plain Dovetailed Joint: Plain Dovetailed Joint. Fig. 145. Material: 2 pieces, 4 1/2 X 3 X J. This joint is rarely used upon anything but the most expensive work, as it requires a high degree of skill to make it econ...

79. Half-Blind Dovetailed Joint: Half-Blind Dovetailed Joint. Fig. 151. Material: 1 front, 4 1/2 X 3 X 7/8 1 side, 4 1/2 X 3 X 1/2. This is the joint which is used in the construction of drawers upon the best grades of...

80. Blind Dovetailed Joint: Blind Dovetailed Joint. Fig. 153. Material: 2 pieces, 41/2 X 3 X I. On account of the time and skill necessary to make this joint, and from the fact that after all the work has been done, ...

Suggestive Exercises #3: 47. What nature of wood is best adapted for use in the work of this chapter? What kinds of wood? Why should not files, rasps, or sandpaper be used in making joints? Should pieces be cut to their exact...

Chapter IV. Supplementary Models: The construction of the following supplementary exercises is based upon the problems discussed in the previous chapter. It is assumed that the student has, by the preceding exercises, gained a knowled...

81. Bench Hook: Bench Hook. Fig. 155. (See Handbook: Fig. 14.) A. Stock list: 1 cutting board, 12 X 6 X 7/8. 1 hook, 2 1/2 X 6 X 7/8 1 rest. 21/2 X 4 X 7/8. B. Length and width of wood: In the above...

82. Coat Hanger: Coat Hanger. Fig. 156. (See Handbook: Fig. 18.) Material: 1 piece, 15 1/2X 2 1/2 X 7/8. Fig. 156. - Coat Hanger. A. Drawing curves through given points: Make the piece square and pa...

83. Foot Rest: Foot Rest. Fig. 158. (See Handbook: Fig. 37.) Material: Any wood of medium hardness. 1 top, 13 X 81/2 X 7/8. 4 legs, 6 1/2 X 1 X 7/8. 2 side rails, 12 1/2 X 1 3/4 X 5/8. 2 end rai...

84. Tool Box: Tool Box. Fig. 159. Material: Pine or poplar. 1 bottom, a, 20 X 12 X 1/2. 1 partition, b, 18 1/2 X 7 X 5/8. 2 sides, c, 19 X 3 1/2 X 1/2. 2 ends, d, 10 1/2 X 3 1/2 X 1/2 1 h...

85. Bookshelf: Bookshelf. Fig. 162. Material: 2 ends, 18 3/4 X 6 X 5/8. 2 shelves, 23 1/4 X 5 3/8 X 5/8. 1 back, 23 1/2 X 6 X 1/2. 1 back, 23 1/4 X 4 X 1/2. Construction of model: The ends of th...

86. Drawing Board: Drawing Board. Fig. 163. (See Handbook: Fig. 39.) Material: 6 pieces, 25 X 3 1/4 (about) X 5/8. 2 cleats, 19 X 5/8. 18 F.H.B. screws, 1 No. 9. A. Gluing a wide board: This is an e...

87. T Square: T Square. Fig. 164. (See Handbook: Fig. 40.) Material: 1 tongue, 1 head, 5 brass screws. 28 X 1 3/4 X 1/8. 10 X 2 1/4 X 3/8. 3/8 No. 3. Maple, cherry, or any close-grained, we...

88. Threefold Screen Frame: Threefold Screen Frame. Oak. Fig. 166. A. Omission of stock list: The stock list for this and succeeding models will be omitted, mention being made simply of the pieces necessary, the student es...

89. Library Table: Library Table. Fig. 171. (The construction of this table is fully explained in Figs. 45 and 46 of the Handbook of this series.) Fig. 171. - Library Table. Get out the stock list. From the...

90. Mission Piano Bench: Mission Piano Bench. Fig. 173. Material: Oak. 1. Sequence of work: Prepare the rectangular pieces with which the standards, d, and the stretcher, c, are to be cut. Locate the tenons upon the ends o...

91. Medicine Cabinet: Medicine Cabinet. Fig. 175. Material: Poplar (Whitewood). In making this model, the top, bottom, and two sides should be made first; and the rabbet, shown at a, should be cut before the pieces are ...

92. Dovetailed Bookrack: Dovetailed Bookrack. Fig. 177. (See Handbook: Fig. 41.) Material: Oak or Poplar. Dovetail the pieces together as shown in the sketch; if the design shown is used, be sure that the curves are symmetric...

93. Magazine Stand: Magazine Stand. Fig. 178. Material: Oak. The ends: Lay out and cut the curves of each end. Prepare the top and bottom shelves. Mark the tenons, or tusks, upon them, and the corresponding mortises i...

94. Wood Finishing: Wood Finishing. In the following brief treatment of wood finishing will be found suggestions regarding methods and processes which may be applied in finishing the models of this chapter. The workman m...

95. Stains: Stains. Stains of almost any desired color and composition may be purchased, but in the following paragraphs an endeavor is made to explain the composition of a few stains which may be easily made by ...

96. Shellac: Shellac. Shellac may be bought ready mixed, or may be cut by dissolving the gum in wood alcohol. In applying shellac finish, the wood should be first filled or stained; upon this, one coat is laid aft...

97. Wax Finish: Wax Finish. Wax finish may be used in almost any place in which shellac is suitable, though it gives more satisfactory results upon dark wood than upon wood of a light color. It may be purchased, as t...

98. Brushes: Brushes. For stain and filling, a cheap brush of any suitable size will do, a flat brush generally being used upon ordinary work. For shellac and varnish, a fine brush will give better results than a ...

Suggestive Exercises #4: 79. How should a student review his previous work to assist in new work? What is the relation between the length and width of a board and its grain? Review processes of making a bench hook, and discus...

Chapter V. Arithmetic Questions: 1. Measure the distance from corner to corner between the windows of a given side of the shop, and give total distance in feet and inches. 2. Measure the bench top to the nearest inch (avoiding fra...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 2: 48. A and B receive 10 and 8 per hour, respectively. They take a contract for $18.75, the material for which costs $6.35. What will be the share of each? 49. If the material used in painting a give...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 3: 85. If the above sash weighs 14 lb., how many and what weights are necessary to hang the window? Note. - A window as described above consists of two sashes. 86. How much siding will be necessary...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 4: 126. If A receives 8 an hour, and B 6 , the work done by B costs \ less than the work done by A. What change should be made in B's pay to equalize the cost of their work? 127. A cleated ceiling bar...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 5: 170. A board fence 1250' long is to be built around an athletic field. It is 8' high and the boards cost 2 per foot. How much will the lumber, exclusive of the rails, cost? 171. Twelve boxes cost 7...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 6: 209. How many cubic feet are there in the above tank? 210. If another tank were to be made of the same height, to hold 4/5 more water, how large would it be on the bottom, if it were perfectly ...

Arithmetic Questions. Part 7: 256. A and B undertake a piece of work; A works of the time, and does 1/2 of it; and B works the rest of the time, and finishes the job. How much ought A to receive, if B receives 8 per hour? ...

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